Chippendale Chair Class on Guild Scholarship
By Roger Moister
Thank you to the Guild for granting me a scholarship for a class to build a Chippendale side chair. The class, held July 28 through Aug 3, 2025 at Woodcraft, was organized by the Peach State Chapter of the Society of the American Period Furniture Makers (SAPFM). I knew everyone in the class, so group chemistry was good as well as there being a tendency of participants to help each other. We worked nearly 54 hours to get the chair substantially completed. It was challenging and fun!
Our instructor was Ben Hobbs, a master furniture and chair maker, from Hertford (Perquimans County) North Carolina on the eastern shore. He teaches woodworking there and builds commission pieces. A former math teacher, Ben has built over 3000 pieces since 1982 and is a recipient of the Cartouche Award, the highest distinction from SAPFM. About the same age as class participants, Ben was very personable and an effective teacher, being patient and firm as he kept the class on task and moving to build a chair for each of the 8 participants.
Ben brought his patterns so we began by cutting out the back legs and then other parts later. Most of us traced patterns for our later personal use.
Generally, one thinks of a chair as having angles and curves, and being intimidating to build. Ben assured us at the beginning that it’s not that hard to build a chair, and once you build one, you can build most others. We embarked without a measured drawing, handout or known angles. Ben noted the seat of our chair was wider in the front than in the back to form a trapezoid and that the back legs were slanting inward on the sides from top to bottom.
Attaching the two back legs to the back seat rail and stretcher at the bottom was our first task. Ben drew a sketch with some dimensions and then showed us how to “pick up the angle” for the ends of the rear rail using a bevel square. So we got the angle we needed without knowing its degree. We cut the back rail and then the back stretcher, mortised the legs, cut the tenons, fitted the joint and glued up to produce the back of the chair.
All participants had already sawed out and sanded their splat and brought it to class to save
time. We fitted the splat into the shoe which we had previously shaped for gluing into the top of the back rail. With crest rail stock mortised to accept the splat, we fitted it and determined where to cut off the top of the back legs. Ben demonstrated this using a framing square as a flat bar and a clamp from its edge and the bottom of the back rail to draw the splat into place. We then cut out the decorative front of the crest rail and its curved profile and proceeded to glue up, which completed the back of the chair.
Shaping and sanding the backside of the rear legs followed. I found some of Ben’s tools interesting for this, and I had had limited experience using them. To fair the curve, we used a Stanley No. 113 adjustable circular sole plane as well as No. 49 and No. 50 rasps and then a Stanley No. 55 curved spokeshave to round the legs. Ben used a Stanley No. 80 cabinet scraper on flat surfaces which he usually had leveled or smoothed beforehand with a Veritas No. 4 1/2 hand plane. Hand planing, scraping and hand sanding, 220 grit with the grain was the usual regimen for finishing all surfaces. Peculiar to Ben, he preferred to mark lines with a ball-point pen because the line is uniformly thin, or knife it in with a boxcutter.
Recalling that the chair seat is a trapezoid leads to how the side rails attach the front and back legs and how this is laid out and built. Envision a side rail running from front to back of the chair at an angle and made of straight stock. Making the attachment requires either angling the mortises or the tenons since the seat is a trapezoid - being wider at the front than the back. We angled the tenons so they stuck out of the ends of the rails in opposing directions at the same angle. Ben demonstrated the layout with the bevel square. Once fitted into the front and back legs, the rail in effect was twisted so that the back end of the rail protruded past the side of the rear leg about 1/8 inch, and the front of the rail died into the outside corner of the front leg. The back end protrusion of the side rail was planed off flush with the side of back leg toward the front at a 45 degree downward angle to where the front of the side rail died into the front leg. Then the outside sliver of the front leg was planed off to create one smooth surface for the side rail. Honestly, how all this came together was quite ingenious and it has been going since Chippendale’s day, but probably not widely observed or known by many people, I believe.
To install the side stretchers below the seat, Ben picked up another angle from the inside of the back leg at floor level and then cut the stretchers to length, created the tenons and fitted them into the back leg mortises. Front legs joints were also fitted.
Fitting all joints to tight, exact perfection was the critical task and Ben demonstrated several techniques of how to analyze a joint and then remove wood which prevented the joint from closing. Clamps were used to pull the chair together. These were the monster old Jorgensen 2 inch steel I beam clamps with a T bar on the screw end as a handle. These were heavy, easier to operate than a Bessey clamp and produced more force. In the end, fitted joints got pulled together under terrific force.
With the front legs attached by the front rail and after a successful dry fit of the chair, glue up came next. According to Ben, this is the most stressful step in construction. He announced his regimen. Rule 0ne: take care of the bladder. Then have all parts and the clamps laid out orderly and nearby. “Butter” both sides of all mortises and tenons with a light coat of Titebond Original (red label) glue. Fit the joints, apply the clamps and work fast because the glue dries quickly. Thin strips were used as pads to protect chair surfaces from the clamps. If a joint was off and did not close, Ben demonstrated how to reposition a clamp and change its pressure. Then we checked the chair for square using a framing square by placing the short side against the back of the seat with the corner end of the square registered at outside corner of the chair. The long end of the square extended up to the inside of the front leg and needed to show a gap of 3/4 inches on each side of the seat at the front leg to validate squareness of the chair. Mine did.
As I describe what happened in the class and the process followed to build the chair, the complexity of building a chair is suggested. Participating in the process and seeing how it is done is really necessary. Ben told us earlier that an older man had shown him how to build a chair in 1982.
Even though we each worked hard to build our chairs, we did not complete them. We ran out of time, and Ben had to hustle at the end to demonstrate how to build the slip seat and upholster it and install the middle stretcher. Nevertheless, I did take an assembled chair home.
So what’s left for me to do? Plenty: build the slip seat and upholster it, cut off the front legs and bead around the seat and down the front legs, fit the center stretcher with a sliding dovetail joint, shape the crest rail and its ears and carve the shell on it, carve the ribbon weave in the splat and its volutes, level the chair to the floor and apply a finish. That’s a good bit of work.
If “advancing the art and understanding of fine woodworking” is the Guild’s mission, then I certainly had that experience from attending the SAPFM Chippendale side chair class.