WHAT I LEARNED OR CONFIRMED ABOUT FINISHING
AUGUST 9 AND 16, 2018 - 6:00 to 9:00
WOODCRAFT
David Jervis - Instructor
By Milton Miller - Grandpas Workshop + 7
Guild Scholarship Recipient
We all are affected by the positive and negative experiences we have had related to finishing. My goal was to improve upon my experiences and select my “Go To Finishes” for various woods and projects.
I tell my seven grandchildren that one of the major differences between a WOODWORKER and a CRAFTSMAN is the manner in which they finish their project.
For this report I have divided it into two types of finishes — penetrating and build-up.
PENETRATING WOULD BE OILS SUCH AS WATCO OR TRIED AND TRUE DANISH OIL.
Applied with a rag, foam brush, or quality paint brush.
Apply heavy coat, let soak in for 15 to 20 minutes, then wipe off and apply a second and/or third coat.
Let dry at least 8 hours.
Lesson Learned—don’t apply Danish Oil over Oil Stain—it just doesn’t dry well.
BUILD-UP WOULD BE GENERAL FINISH—ARM-R-SEAL-OIL AND URETHANE OR WATERLOX.
Apply with quality brush that is used for this purpose only.
Usually requires 3 to 5 coats, depending on wood and sheen desired.
Lessons Learned—if you don’t seal a General Finish can well, it will skim over and you will waste a lot of finish.
Stains are important as well as waxing, depending on how the project will be used.
Making Hand Cut Dovetails
By Michael Lawsky
The last time I tried making dovetails was about 25 years ago. I thought I’d be all into this hobby of hand-made woodworking, so I picked up the hand tools and was ready to go. I made a few pieces of furniture, none of them using dovetails, then realized I’d better get into power tools if I was going to make a dent in our furniture needs. After a couple of sad tries with dovetails, I put it aside.
Fast forward to today, we have no furniture needs but I do have a lot of time. The course at Highland would be a great way to pick up where I left off - or rather scrapping my memory of those sad attempts and starting over.
My previous experience with a class at Highland was great and eventually resulted in more turned bowls than I or my heirs would ever need.
My class was made up of seven students, all in different phases of woodworking experience but all completely new at hand cutting dovetails. Perfect! Maybe mine won’t be the worst. Our instructor was Jay Wiggins, an experienced furniture maker and woodworking instructor. Our well-lit classroom consisted of our seven workbenches and instructor’s bench, whiteboard and a few scattered machines. If you’ve taken a course at Highland you’ll recognize the scene.
If we hadn’t brought our own tools there was an array of tools from which we could choose for the task. I chose the chisels, square, marking gauge, saw (Japanese dovetail saw), sliding bevel, and pencil. Obviously, I hadn’t brought my own tools. Jay explained that one could use either the Western woodworkers’ dovetail saw which cuts on the push stroke, or the Japanese version which cuts on the pull stroke. He noted that most beginners found it easier to begin a cut on the pull stroke, but the end result is the same. Jay demonstrated the making of a dovetail at the instructor’s bench with the class crowded around. The process seemed pretty straightforward.
First and foremost (really foremost) is measuring. He drew a seven-inch line perpendicular to an edge of a piece of paper, then measured one inch out from the line at the edge and drew a line (the hypotenuse of the triangle) from the one-inch mark to the top of the first line. I describe this because it turns out to be pretty simple to determine
the angle of the dove’s tail. This angle was 1:7. A six-inch line would be 1:6 and so on. Math and angle degrees are unnecessary. What is necessary, though, is to use a ratio of between 1:6 and 1:8 on a structural dovetail so that the points of the tail would not be so thin as to break off. It depends on the wood and the use, so there are no hard rules. After a thorough demonstration, we were off to our benches.
The number of tails depends on wood size and desired look. Our wood was 3/4 inch thick and almost 4 inches wide, so we used two tails spaced evenly apart with a half tail at each end. It’s necessary to have half tails at the ends. I won’t go into detail about the rest of the tail measurements but they are meant to determine what gets cut away and what stays. Lines are drawn in pencil using the angle gauge set to the line on the paper. The lines are on the front, back, and end of the wood and serve as the cutting guides for the saw. It’s important to clearly mark the waste part so you always cut on the waste side of the line. Even so, I cut on the wrong side of the line, which Jay and I decided was a learning experience, so I’ll never do it again. I did it again.
I learned that in cutting the tails and the pins (the opposites of the tails) it’s important to not saw off the line as it’s an important reference all the way through and results in higher precision and fewer gaps. I also found that the sawing was the hardest part. It took some concentration and constant checking to make sure the saw and cut was against the line on all three sides of the wood. When the cuts were done, the waste was then chopped out with a chisel. I thought this would be difficult and messy. In fact, it was quite easy. Done in several steps, it consisted of a chop at the base of waste between the tails and then a chop into the end grain. As with every other use, a sharp chisel is required. The tails are then perfected
(I use this term loosely) with the chisel so that the sides are smooth and angles are sharp.
On to the pins. To make the pins, the tails are outlined on the edge of the other piece of wood. Lines are then drawn on both sides of the wood straight down from the edge lines to form the cutting guides. I should mention that the marking gauge was used to determine the depth of both the tails and pins, denoting the ends of the lines and based on the thickness of the other piece of wood. Saw cuts are made on the lines as they were with the pins and the (well-marked) waste is chopped out. After initial cleaning, the joint is tested and refined so it fits together. This required trial and, well, trial again, because you don’t want an error. My joint took a few mallet taps to fit because I had just done some body work on my car and that was my mind-set. Slight taps are fine as you want a tight fit but too hard a tap could result in a cracked piece of wood so if it does’t fit with light taps, we go back to the chisel.
Well, I actually made a several dovetail joints and found that though it requires practice (what doesn’t?) it’s not really that hard. When I make them in my shop It will be with thinner wood so the cutting will not be as challenging. More important, however, is the lesson of learning from experts and how that vastly increases the speed to success.
This article is by a Guild member who, at a recent Guild meeting raffle, won this partially-funded class held at Patron Sponsor Highland Woodworking.