A.  Blowout - Blade blows/moves to  outside of board

B.  Bellied or Barrel Cut  -  Curved, not straight

C.  Angled Cut - not parallel

D.  Blade Binding / Burning in cut

E.  Cut surface too rough for efficient clean-up / smoothing

      2.  Reasons for Poor Results

A.  Board not flat and square

B.  Internal stresses in board due to growing conditions

C.  Uneven moisture distribution from uneven drying or drying too fast (case hardened) in            the initial lumber drying process

D.  Dull / dirty blade
E.  Wrong type of blade

      a.  Best Choice:  Variable Pitch Blade - 1/2 or 3/4 Wide

      b.  Skip tooth and hook tooth blades:  2nd best choices

      c.   Regular/standard tooth blade poor choice

F.  Fence not parallel to direction of cut

G.  Blade Deflection:  The force required to push workpiece into the saw blade                                    causes the back edge to go into tension and the front edge into compression.  When the          front edge compresses too much, it tends to jump sideways, out of the plane of cut.

      a.  It Causes blowout, twist/warpage, and bellied/barrel cut: classical buckling

      b.  Deflection theory formulas also were illustrated 

H.  Poor sawdust evacuation

 I.   Feed rate too fast or slow

J.   Bandsaw wheels not aligned on same plane

K.   Under-powered saw bogs down

L.   Thrust Bearings (upper and lower) not properly set

M.  Improper use of featherboard(s) can pinch blade and allow board to wander

       away from fence

N.  Fence not high enough - should be 6" -  even if board is wider

      3.  Good Blade Handling Practices

A.  Always wear gloves 

B.  Record date of blade installation such as blade label taped to saw

C.  Store blades in original packaging or cut label ID info from blade and tie to coiled blade 

D.  Keep blade clean and free of accumulated pitch

E.  With saw running, round off back edge of blade with blade tuning stone or finishing                    stone 

      Sparks will fly so clean dust on inside and around saw! 

      4.  Fence Design and Set-up

A.  Curved or Point Style

B.  Flat Style    -    Either style can be shop made 

C.  Height -  6" Max usually sufficient

D.  Set-up Fence is perpendicular to table and parallel to blade - Important!

       Use 12" square and flashlight to ensure accuracy 

      5.  Adjusting Blade to Fit Fence

A.  Theoretically, tracking of the saw blade on the wheels can be tweaked to cause the line             of cut to rotate inward (toed-in) or outward (toed-out)

B.  If done properly, this tweaking will result in the blade cutting parallel to axle of the                    wheel, and thus parallel to the miter slot

C.  Proper tracking means aligning the back of the blade's gullet in center of the tire.

      This will, again theoretically, orient the the blade parallel to axle of wheel, not toed-in

      or toed-out; resulting in a cut parallel to the miter slot

D.  You can then set the fence parallel to the miter slot to get a smooth, flawless cut

      6.   Adjust Fence to Fit the Blade

A.  Band Saw  blades are not all the same, and can even appear to have a 

      mind or their own

B.  Determine which way your blade wants to cut  -  You may need to align

      the fence with that direction

      7.  Safety

A.  Wear safety glasses and consider hearing protection 

B.  Keep fingers 2'' from blade and use push sticks and featherboards 

C.  If free of burrs, back edge of blade will not hurt you

D.  Workpiece can also be pulled through cut 

We greatly appreciate the time and effort Jim put into 

this excellent and educational presentation !